R32 Skyline USDM Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement - For RB25 swap front facing intake

R32 Skyline USDM Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement - For RB25 swap front facing intake

The R32 Skyline does not have a direct USDM replacement brake master cylinder. There are some options that fit off the shelf if you get a new line (or bend your old one) - which we will explore here. The other problem this solves is in a swap situation, especially the RB25DET and LS1, the longer stock master cylinder creates fitment problems. In the case of a front facing intake, with an RB25DET swap, the OEM R32 Skyline master cylinder won’t fit. However, the master cylinder shown below will allow it to fit.

Parts needed:

• Pathfinder Master Cylinder

• GK Tech RHD S13 Clutch Line

If asked - the GKTech line you want is the damper delete version. The line is longer than needed, but you can loop it behind the fuel lines and around the steering column to make it fit more reasonably.

Size wise, the OEM master cylinder is 117mm long. The Pathfinder unit is less than half that. The bore is the exact same, so the pedal pressure should be identical to engage the clutch.

The parts above give you a master cylinder clearance that looks like this:

RB20DET R32 Skyline GTST Power Steering Belt Part Number

RB20DET R32 Skyline GTST Power Steering Belt Part Number

Amazon link to the belt: 4PK495

The RB20DET engine, a stalwart of Nissan's performance lineup, is renowned for its impressive power delivery and versatility. Among its critical components, the power steering system plays a crucial role in ensuring a smooth and responsive driving experience. At the heart of this system is the power steering belt, an often-overlooked but vital component that enables effortless maneuverability. If you hear a squeaking or chirping from the engine bay when you turn your wheel in your R32 Skyline, or if your power steering feels heavy, your belt may be slipping and would need replacement.

The correct power steering belt for the RB20DET engine is the 4PK 945. This alphanumeric code provides key information about the belt's specifications. The "4PK" refers to the belt's rib profile and number of ribs, with four ribs ensuring proper contact and grip. The "945" signifies the belt's length, measured in millimeters, which determines its compatibility with the specific engine layout.

The RB20DET power steering belt, like all belts, is subject to wear and tear over time due to constant movement, exposure to heat, and environmental factors. A deteriorating belt can result in decreased power steering performance, leading to increased steering effort and potential squealing noises. Regular inspection and timely replacement are crucial to maintain optimal power steering function.

Genuine or high-quality aftermarket belts are recommended to guarantee proper fitment, tension, and longevity. Additionally, during replacement, it's a good practice to inspect the pulleys and tensioner for any signs of wear or damage, as a failing pulley can accelerate belt degradation.

In conclusion, the RB20DET power steering belt, exemplified by the 4PK 945 part number, is a small yet indispensable component that contributes to the engine's overall performance and the driver's experience. Regular maintenance, including proper belt care and timely replacement, will not only ensure smooth and effortless steering but also prolong the life of the entire power steering system, enhancing the RB20DET's exceptional driving dynamics.

The RB26 RB20 and RB25 viscous clutch fan is junk and you should upgrade to a modern e fan setup

The clutch fan in the RB engine flows very little air, and you should upgrade to a modern electric fan setup to keep your engine cool.

There is an old wives tale on the internet that viscous clutch fans flow 10,000 CFM, and that they are better than electric fans. If anyone reading this has upgraded to good e-fans on your RB, you are probably laughing because it’s painfully obvious how bad the clutch fan is by just sticking your hand behind your new fans after swapping it out. But, people still argue this is the case, so I grabbed my anemometer and tested the airflow.

To cut to the chase, our test subjects and results were:

• Stock RB fan clutch + GK Tech Fan: 1757 CFM

• Mishimoto Fan Kit: 1790 CFM

• Spal 30103202: 3284 CFM

So to recap before we get to the photos and testing method: the stock fan clutch, with the upgraded GK Tech fan flows LESS than an off the shelf e-fan kit from a low end manufacturer. The GK Tech fan allegedly flows 40% more air, but I don’t see any record of CFM testing from them. They do have extensive video testing of temperature drop in a car from one fan to another, so their fan IS better than stock, but CFM wise we don’t know how much. Even if we assume it’s just 10%, the stock fan would be at 1600CFM. That’s less CFM than ONE of the Spal fans tested.

The obvious caveat here is the shrouding, which makes a huge difference. The OEM fan was made with the OEM shroud in mind and is adequate for most cars. The more obstruction and heat you add to your engine bay, the less likely the OEM fan is to keep up. While the Mishimoto fans flow more air than the stock fan, the shroud is absolute trash for air movement beyond idle and slow speeds. Ideally, you can run enough e-fan for adequate cooling and get rid of the shroud to allow air to exit the engine bay better than the OEM shroud could.

Testing Method

CFM testing isn’t rocket science. There is a formula that uses the area of the fan and the wind speed to determine the effective amount of air being pulled over a surface.

https://www.engineering.com/calculators/air-flow-conversion-calculator/

So, we have our fan sizes:

• GK Tech Fan: 16”

• Mishimoto: 11.5”

• Spal: 12.5”

And we have our wind speed measurements:

• GK Tech fan: 14.3 MPH

• Mishimoto: 14.1 MPH

• Spal: 21.9 MPH ***

There are two footnotes below on how windspeed measurements were taken and why certain settings were used, as well as a note about the Spal fan measurements.

At this point it’s pretty much case closed, given that the Spal fan moves 50% faster than the clutch fan that is 25% bigger than it - and there’s two of them - but we’ll continue with the CFM conversions anyway.

• GK Tech: 1757 CFM

• Mishimoto Fan: 895 CFM (each, total 1790)

• Spal: 1642 CFM (each, 3284 total)

As stated above, the Spal e-fans flow nearly twice the air as the clutch fan, and the Mishimoto fans outperform the clutch fan as well. Keep in mind, this is with the upgraded GK Tech Fan, so the stock fan performs even worse than this. The clutch on this car tested as also brand new, as the previous owner was chasing overheating issues that ended up being a head gasket (after he replaced the radiator, clutch, fan, and shroud).

It is no mystery why virtually every automobile manufacturer has switched the e-fans: they perform better, give you more space in the engine bay, and are less load on the engine meaning more horsepower. If you are having issues with cooling at idle, upgrade to a modern cooling system.

Images and Footnotes

RB Clutch Fan

Mishimoto Fans

Spal Fan

RB Clutch Fan

Mishimoto Electric Fan

Spal Fan

FOOTNOTE 1: For wind speed measurement I used the MAX setting on the anemometer as my number to test with, as it is the most reliable and consistent method. The average has too many variables, as I can’t fully get my hands in the engine bay with the clutch fan, and so the averaged reading may be off due to me maneuvering it around the belts. I could bench test the e-fans, but there are still human variables such as me not sweeping the anemometer over the fan at the same pace that could lead to bad average results.

*** FOOTNOTE 2: The car with the Spal e-fans tested was idling rough and at low RPM due to having 6 month old e85 in the tank. Spal claims they are 1800 CFM. Even in these conditions, they still outperformed the clutch fan.

FOOTNOTE 3: People may point out that the clutch fan will increase in speed with RPM, so an idle test isn’t fair to it. It is true that the clutch fan will spin faster at higher RPM, but idle is the only time your fans matter. Once you hit 25MPH the CFM of the ambient air hitting your radiator is in the neighborhood of 6000 or more. At that point the clutch fan will never be able to keep up. If you’re overheating at cruising speeds, you have much bigger issues than fans.

What batteries fit the Nissan Skyline R32 GTST and GTR? 2023 Version

What batteries fit the Nissan Skyline R32 GTST and GTR? 2023 Version

Batteries are a wear and tear item in any car, and replacing them is especially crucial now in the winter when they are likely to die. I am writing this article after just going out to start my Skyline and the battery was dead.

The reason for this guide is that the R32 Skyline (and many other JDM cars) use JIS battery terminals, which are smaller than the American SAE terminals. You can’t just go grab the same CCA battery off the shelf at AutoZone for your GTR. Your options are:

#1 MOST POPULAR: Optima yellowtop

The Optima Yellowtop for the Prius is the easiest way to get a good battery with a reasonable warranty delivered to your door. It is a little more expensive ($275 at the time of writing this article), but generally lasts for 3+ years and gives strong CCA in a form factor that fits under the hood. The terminals are the correct size for the R32 Skyline (both GTR and GTST) out of the box.

Buy the Optima Yellowtop on Amazon here.

#2 Option: AC Delco

This battery is from AC Delco and is usually cheaper than the Yellowtop, but has a shorter warranty. As of right now, it is more expensive than the Optima. Watch the price and these regularly dip under $200.

Buy the AC Delco battery for the R32 here.

#3 Option: Odyssey Mini Battery

This battery is small. Very small. Given that, if you don’t drive your R32 very much, it’s going to die prematurely and you’re going to be out $150+ every year. We recommend keeping this one on a tender if you don’t drive your Skyline often. It does have the right posts out of the box and is even better for battery relocations as it can fit in small spaces.

Buy the Odyssey battery here.

As mentioned above: if you can, always keep your battery on a tender. I use this $40 tender from Amazon at my house on my personal car that has had the OEM battery for 10 years, going on 11. A tender keeps your battery at a drip charge of voltage so it never dies. If you save even one battery with a tender, it’s paid for itself a few times over.

RB20DET Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) Replacement Part Number

RB20DET Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) Replacement Part Number

Oxygen sensors (also known as o2 sensors) are a common wear and tear item in the RB20DET that any new owner of a Skyline will need to replace at some point. There are also issues with melting if the plugs or wires get close to aftermarket headers after a careless install.

The parts for replacement are linked below:

Amazon Link

It’s a standard Bosch sensor for the RB20DET that also fits some other applications such as the SR20DET. In general, Nissan used the same sensors for their 90s cars. Note that the plug in the image is NOT the same plug as the RB20DET uses, but the sensor you will receive IS the correct sensor. We have ordered over 15 of these sensors and used them with no issues.

Removing o2 sensors is sometimes difficult to do, given that you can’t easily get a socket on it due to the wires extending from the top. If that’s the case, and you can’t reach it with a wrench, use of these O2 Sensor Sockets to remove it.

A regular set of crows feet also works and they have more applications than just O2 sensors.

The oxygen sensor is located in the downpipe.

R32 Skyline GTR and GTST battery 12V replacement - 2021 Edition

R32 Skyline GTR GTS4 GTST battery 12V replacement - 2021 Edition

It’s time to update our recommendation list for batteries for the R32 Skyline GTR, GTST, GTS4, GXi, and all other R32 models. Luckily, there aren’t many changes.

#1 Option - Optima Yellowtop for Nissan Skyline R32

As with the year prior - the best battery to replace your dead battery with in the R32 GTR GTST and GTS4 is the Optima Yellowtop for the Prius. Click here for that link.

Optima warranties their batteries for three years, and Amazon even double-protects you if Optima declines your warranty (which has happened to us before, luckily!). The battery is a direct drop in replacement for all models of Nissan Skyline R32, and fits the stock terminals perfectly.

These batteries should be available for the next decade or longer.

#2 Option - AC Delco for Nissan Skyline GTR GTST GTS4

This is the best second option for a battery - the AC Delco battery with JIS compliant posts.

As with the Yellowtop, the AC Delco is a drop-in replacement that should fit 100% without issue. It is cheaper than the Yellowtop, but doesn’t have as strong of a warranty (two years, versus the Optima’s three).

If you don’t want to spend as much, this is a solid option, but we have seen a lot of warranty options declined on this and if you don’t drive your Skyline often, you may end up killing it enough times in two years that the battery will die prematurely.

#3 Option - Odyssey

This Odyssey battery is great for a dedicated track car. They are small, incredibly lightweight, and include terminals that are a direct fit for the R32 Skyline GTR, GTST, and GTS4.

Given the size of this battery, it is EXTREMELY prone to dying prematurely and we highly recommend keeping this on a tender at all times. More on that below:

Keeping your battery from dying

My R32 Skyline GTST is not my daily driver, and sometimes (especially now in January) it isn’t driven for a month or longer. To keep your battery from dying with STRONGLY recommend keeping your battery on a tender. They are cheap, don’t draw enough current to significantly affect your electricity bill, and will keep your battery at exactly 12 volts when you aren’t driving it.

There are a million options of cheap tenders, but we have a set of six of these NOCO Tenders around the shop and they have been great over the past five years.

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR GTST GTS4 Fuel Filter Replacement - USDM Compatible

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR GTST GTS4 Fuel Filter Replacement - USDM Compatible

The fuel filter in your Nissan Skyline R32 should be regularly replaced to keep your car running optimally. If you are experiencing stuttering when you apply the gas at any point in the RPM range, it is likely due to a clogged fuel filter.

The fuel filter in the R32 is incredibly easy to replace, and very cheap. It can also be purchased locally at any auto part store, or online in the USA since it is compatible with another USDM car. This works for all models of Nissan Skyline: GTR, GTS4, GTST, GXi, etc.

Fuel Filter - Amazon Link

Fuel Filter - eBay Link

The above links will take you to a fuel filter that can be ordered in the USA and is an OEM equivalent. This is the filter for the Infiniti J30. It has a bottom outlet that is a straight barb, and a top outlet that is a 90 degree barb. This filter is a 100% drop in replacement for any model of R32.

Unless your Skyline is making insane power, you will be just fine with the OEM or OEM equivalent filters.

The fuel filter is located under the brake master cylinder in the engine bay.

Nissan Skyline R32 GTST Inner and Outer Tie Rod - USDM Replacement

Nissan Skyline R32 GTST Inner and Outer Tie Rod - USDM Replacement

The Nissan Skyline R32 GTST has a replacement Inner and Outer Tie Rod that come from USDM vehicles. You should be able to purchase these at any auto parts store in the USA, or order them online from Amazon or eBay (links below) for a reasonable price. If you’re having issues with your alignment, don’t wait weeks to get some delivered from Japan!

For Inner Tie rods, the Z32 (300ZX) 89-96 models share the same INNER tie rods. This is the threaded end that goes into the steering rack of your Skyline.

Inner Tie Rods:

R32 Inner Tie Rods - Amazon Link

R32 Inner Tie Rods - eBay Link

The Outer Tie Rod Ends are the same as the S14 240SX (95-98). This threads onto the inner tie rod, and goes into the knuckle. Keep in mind these are DIFFERENT than the GTR/GTS4 Tie rod ends. For those parts, visit this blog post.

Outer Tie Rod Ends:

R32 Outer Tie Rods - Amazon link

R32 Outer Tie Rods - eBay link

As always, if your car is lowered significantly, we recommend getting misalignment tie rods. GKTech makes a set that allows for adjustment to suit the angle of your steering rack. The lower your car, the more your tie rod will end up slanting upward to seat properly in the knuckle. Ideally, you want your tie rods to be perfectly parallel with the ground. The GKTech tie rod ends allow you to do this with your R32 Skyline GTST.

GKTech Misalignment Tie Rod Ends

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR and GTS4 Inner and Outer Tie Rods - USDM Replacement

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR and GTS4 Inner and Outer Tie Rods - USDM Replacement

A common wear and tear item on the Nissan Skyline R32 GTR and GTS4 are the inner and outer tie rods. Over time these wear out and should be replaced, and they aren’t too expensive, so when modifying anything on the steering rack, it would be a good idea to replace them at the same time.

Luckily, the Skyline R32 has a replacement part that is available in the USA.

Both the Z32 (300ZX) 89-96 model year tie rods work for the Nissan Skyline R32 GTR and GTS4.

Inner Tie Rods (Amazon Link)

Outer Tie Rods (Amazon Link)

Inner Tie Rods (eBay Link)

Outer Tie Rods (eBay Link)

The GTR and GTS4 variants of the R32 both use this tie rod rod end (inner and outer). They are generally around $30 each per side, and as long as your car isn’t slammed, will work just fine. We have used the Moog and other aftermarket brands on a few R32 Skylines (both GTR and GTS4) without an issue.

If your car is really low, we recommend a set of high misalignment tie rod ends, that will allow them the adjustment necessary to not have bump steer. You can purchase them below:

GKTech R32 Tie Rod Ends

GKTech also makes a set of inner tie rods that have a ton more adjustment for those of you that are drifting or racing your vehicles and want additional adjustment for front suspension. If you have upgraded knuckles, arms, etc, and having issues with getting the correct alignment, consider the tie rods at the link below:

GKTech R32 Inner Tie Rods

Nissan Skyline R32 GTST GTR Starter USDM Compatible Part - Forklift Starter! RB20DET RB26DETT

Nissan Skyline R32 GTST GTR Starter USDM Compatible Part - Forklift Starter! RB20DET RB26DETT

As with virtually every part for the Nissan Skyline R32 GTST and GTR, parts are in rare supply and hard to find. Starters are a typical wear and tear item that goes bad over time. Luckily, for your RB20DET and RB26DETT starters, there is a USDM replacement available for cheap that bolts right up!

A Nissan forklift starter is compatible with all models of R32 Skyline with a manual transmission. You can find links to them below:

RB20DET / RB26DETT USDM Starter - Amazon Link

RB20DET / RB26DETT USDM Starter - eBay Link

I didn’t have any luck finding these at local auto part stores, but Amazon and eBay both seem to always have inventory and quick shipping. These are stocked in the USA by most places, and while they are never advertised for the R32 Skyline, they bolt right up and fit perfectly.

The solenoid is in a slightly different location than the OEM unit, but again, it is 100% okay.

The starting sound is a little different but going on 2 years now with one, they don’t seem to be prone to premature wear or early failure. We used one in a 1992 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS4 with an AWD RB20DET, and confirmed it’s the exact same starter across the other models: GTR, GTST, etc.